Voilà!

Yes, I know that I do not reinvent the wheel, but I do it smarter! After 10 years working with that chip everything to improve is done. I offer two options:

• the ready soldered PCB without heatsink, jacks, potentiometer and wooden base. You can mount it on or in whatever you want
• for those who don't like to tinker, I offer a complete amplifier mounted on a wooden board made of maple

Following a bit tech talk:

• current path: the amp works with a lead acid battery as power source. I swear on Sonnenschein batteries, to get addicted a common car battery is enough. The power socket is screwed to ensure secure contact. The amp is always powered on and set to standby with an integrated switch. There is NO interruption in the power line by a prone switch! The PCB includes two 10.000 μF Mundorf MLytic to buffer the power supply.
• signal path: input jacks are from Yamamoto, nickel free. The jacks are directly soldered to the PCB. I have chosen the superb RIKE Audio S-Cap as decoupling caps.
• volume control: Elma stepped attenuator with high-grade Vishay resistors which will bring you channel equality and an improved attenuation curve. Of course you can use the BYOB as a pure power amplifier, then the volume control can be omitted.
• as speaker jacks, the PCB comes with 4 silver tubes. They fit hollow banana plugs perfectly.
• to control the status of your lead-acid-battery, I use two LEDs. From 12.5 Volts on and below, you see a difference in the brightness between these two LEDs. Then it is time to charge your battery.
• 2 amplifier ICs: double mono prevents the stereo channels from mutual influence. Every channel has its own power supply rail. The Amp is stable down to two Ohms and then offers 25 Watts power.
• all parts selected for channel equality.
• best audiophile parts. Everywhere. The PCB (approx. 110 x 120 mm) has extra large conductor tracks for best signal transmission.